Cobbled together

Roma, Italy, Thursday 24 September

Holy the time is going quickly.

Rome’s centre is extremely compact. Things are much closer than they seem. Frankly I think it is a maze makers dream. Just when I think I have hit the street I want it has suddenly become something else. Luckily this supports my rather unique sense of direction. Today though we celebrate. I mostly went where I had intended, just a few small diversions but Lyndal’s advice to ‘just lose yourself and enjoy it’ has been ringing in my ears. I have referred to ‘50 adventures on foot’ for inspiration, and also as I am half way through my roamin (sic) stay I have had to make some important decisions. What must I give up? I had intended to visit the Vatican, seems that is a must do in Rome, but have decided I will happily give up the day that will take to do some other things. A trip to the Borghese Gallery being one of those. I am booked in to visit the Gallery this evening (only 240 people are admitted at once and the time limit imposed is two hours!). It has particular significance because it houses some of the best old Italian art, including master works of Caravaggio and Rubens and sculptures by Bernini (the guy who dreamed up much of what I have been looking at fountain wise and who was a dab hand at marble). But more on that later.

As I haven’t yet come across the Spanish Steps I started with those. After a gorgeous 15 minute through the Borghese Villa Park (along with most of the nannies from the area) I came across a lovely view across the roof tops of Rome. My photo’s really don’t do it any justice. The light was awesome, almost dappled, certainly soft (well maybe not but not harsh like ours).Terracotta tiled rooves at all angles, with roof gardens adding splashes of green here and there. Could be anywhere I guess except here there are enormous domes dotted about the place as well, St Peter’s being the largest but his is in pretty good company. I headed towards where the steps were supposed to be and noticed a lot of people bustling outside a very old looking church. I visited for a while, it turned out to be the lovely Trinita dei Montei, I was on the right path this church is at the top of the 137 Spanish steps which terrace to give a fab view of the famous fountain of the fish in the Piazza di Spagna (designed by Bernini’s father – talented family that one). Not sure if people visit the church for its historical significance though or because after walking up the steps they really just need a breather. Down I went anyway.

From the fountain I followed my nose which took me down the Via Condetti. Clearly a street for those with money, the pavements are wider than anywhere I have been but that is probably because it is home to Gucci, Versace, Prada, Valentino, Bulgari et etc etc. Girls you will be pleased to know that the colours for winter seem to be black, grey and red, with tokenistic dark green and fuschia thrown in and a bit of bling here and there. Boys, I didn’t notice…but I know none of you will care.
I had read in the 50 cards that I should approach Piazza Navona from Cinque something St so I attempted to do this, and I did! The three fountains are just like you see in the pictures. It really is quite a stunning sight, the Piazza is so spacious – these days it needs to be to cope with the hundreds of tourists each day - nevertheless, definitely a highlight. Facing Navona is the Church of St Agnes; I had read about this but didn’t realise when I was right in front of it that it was the same church (arghh). This was apparently where St Agnes was forced to strip naked in front of a crowd but when she removed he clothes her hair miraculously grew to cover her indignity (you gotta like these miracle stories). Anyway I missed that one.

I knew I was close to the Campo de Fiori (the fish, cheese and many other things market) so wandered where I thought I should and ‘buona fortuna’ there it was (this was a good navigation day!). Strolled around and rifled the stock, and then had one last must see while I was in the area – the Panthenon.

Apparently tourists fall over the Panthenon, you just can’t miss it. But I am not just any tourist. My distraction was another lovely church, which unfortunately was closed. Nevertheless I peeked through the windows and there were bright blue and red frescoes everywhere; ceiling, windows, walls nothing was spared the white space of design we must have these days. It was the church of Maria something or other, I will find out more as it looked worthy of more time. However I have to say the Panthenon was also pretty spectacular. Now. Marble, brass, candles and altars are not generally to my interior design taste but considering the structure is massive, perfectly round, was finished in around 125AD, that is one twenty five AD, and by Hadrian no less, it deserved my attention. You enter it through one of three huge bronze doors (originals!). Right smack in the middle of the roof is a dome that enables an amazing shaft of light to illuminate much of the building (I am sure?) naturally. I can’t begin to imagine how it got there as the dome must be massive. The floors are all marble and there are little portico’s for prayer around the sides (albeit with barred entry these days). The Panthenon is now a church and a general altar is set up along with pews. I was intrigued at just how many people were taking time to give thanks (or whatever one does in a religious setting) but this is Rome so I just marveled. However on closer investigation I realized that every single one of the seated had their head bowed...over a city map. Like me they were just trying get off their feet for a bit and to find their way to the next stop. So much for divine navigation.

The cobbles of Rome, which are everywhere central, are more and more challenging to walk on as the day passes. My dodgy knee has felt the pressure several times previously and did again today. They are called Sampietrini. Made of black porphyry they were used to pave all the streets in the 16th century. Yes, I have been reading up on them as I learned that council equivalent is planning to rip loads of them up to replace them! They are apparently, in the 21st century, too dangerous for the well heeled woman and apparently slippery especially in the wet. They certainly got in the way of my lunch today, I had intentions to visit a little restaurant suggested in the Lux guide but that will have to wait as my feet were killing me and I still needed to walk back up the steps and up through the park. I really do need to have a bigger shoe collection with me, or at least wear the very practical ones for walking about.

On a technological front, my email is back up and working on both my phone and as dial in on the Mini. The main challenge is trying to find wifi strength at a reasonable rate, cheapest I have had is E3 an hour (that’s about $6.50) and dearest E12 for an hour!

The big news here is the Sydney cloud storms and that President Obama and Colonel Gaddifi were at the UN. (You may be amused to know that my spell checker has Osama loaded but not Obama…I wonder how long that will take to change)

The big question on my mind is… how did John do on Jay Leno?? Deb, anyone..please let me know.

PS the clouds are a gathering here too, a little cooler today.

Pic is looking down toward the exclusive Via Condetti from the bottom of the very accessible Spanish Steps.