A Fez to remember

Fez, Monday 12 October

The hotel I am staying at in Fez is classed as a five star. It may be here but at home it would barely make a single star. The entrance way is splendid after that it becomes quite third world…although it does have a lovely looking pool. We have some issues with the food and cleanliness; someone has seen the waiters return uneaten breads which have been sitting in the open on people’s side plates back into the breakfast breads. We are already warned off any drink that is delivered opened (it must be opened in front of us), milk or juice is a no no as it will have had water added to make it go further, and fruit should only be eaten peeled and could still be upsetting. None of us want to get sick and we are all distrustful of the staff. I have been sticking to the pastries and the tangines but I have to say most of the food is served tepidly and is not nice, as I was so looking forward to the food I am disappointed so far. The restaurant staff are not giving people change they are owed and when they could speak English when we ordered the same people do not when we have a complaint. Cleanliness is at a whole new low, this morning’s breakfast plates were filthy underneath and my pet hate is actually all the long black hairs I find in my bathroom. Arghhhh. Angel says it is mostly like this and anything can happen…welcome to Morocco.

Our Fezian guide is Momo, short for Mohammet. His nickname means that if we call out his name in the Medina 50 heads won’t pop up to answer. He tells us about Polygamy, Moroccan men were allowed four wives up until recently. He says that the men tend to spend the most time with the youngest and this typically this means families of 10 to 14 children which these days is quite expensive. He should know he has the maximum four (!). Under the new King, an educated man who prefers monogamy, now only one wife is allowed, unless, that is, wife number one agrees to more. Watching the men in the street I see pros and cons. We see very few women around except in the markets shopping. Men we see all the time sitting drinking and smoking together in clusters at the many local coffee shops. One of my compatriots wants to put them to work mowing grass (when there is some) and picking up the enormous amounts of rubbish, especially plastic bags and bottles and glass, rubbish is everywhere.

After the trip to the Medina I have had enough for the day. On leaving our last stop which was to an Artisans craft centre, a more traditional shop, I noticed a youngish local man in a Jeliboa walk though part of our group spitting after us. Not enough to be greatly noticed but enough to see just how contemptuous he was of our presence. I am sure someone likes us being here but there hasn’t been as much friendliness demonstrated as I have found in any other market I have visited. One of the reasons may be that some tourists (including some of our group) take photos with people in them and they are not giving them any payment. The international sign of rubbing a thumb over the first two fingers is being blatantly ignored. It must be very intrusive on the locals who have nowhere to go and every right to ask for a payment after-all this is their place of work. But nor do they have the language skills to say what I would if someone took my photo that way. I am sure there are other reasons but this is irking me as well.

Two hours in the sun by the pool is restorative. At 3.45 the rhythmic call to prayer (one of five calls a day) reaches the pool and seems incongruous with a kiwi and two Aussie girls and a dozen or so Frenchman sunbathing and playing around in the pool. I’m ready enough then for a trip to the hypermarket just up the road to get more bottled water, a couple of beers and to check out the aisles It seems I can shop anywhere (did you doubt it?), I return with a new carry on suitcase, a four wheeler for about $90 kiwi. It is the lightest, most robust and cheapest I have seen anywhere. Fingers crossed it lasts. Surprisingly there are few bargains that we have found. The cheap days of Morocco do not exist for tourists any more in Fez. The Nike wear is cheaper in London, a set of six lovely tea glasses is E118 (about NZ$236) we are constantly shown jewelry that is around NZ$100 to $1000 in price, even bargaining the vendors are in dreamland but it seems someone is paying these prices. I am happy to move on from Fez already.

We load up the suitcase with water and the beers and effortlessly wheel it back up the dirty highway to the hotel for an in-room bought sealed from the supermarket Tapa’s dinner.

Pic: The entrance to the Fez Medina, no talent fees required on this one.