Paella, Genevieve and the Spanish Inquisition

Avila, Tuesday 6 October

An early start on the bus this morning meant that we missed the rush hour traffic (Madrid gridlock) and got to Avila, a fortified town that looks like it is straight out of the Arthurian Tales. Avila/Avalon the power of myth perhaps - the ramparts are Camelot itself. There are four main entrances or gates and 88 towers into the walled Avila town. You can walk around the top of walls for E3/4 but I was content to soak up the atmosphere in wandering mode. It really does evoke the Arthurian Tales…in Spanish of course.

Before our arrival we are provided with some historical context but still it is only 7.30 in the morning so a critical moment in the 1300 years we covered may have slipped passed me. The year 711 sees the arrival of the Arab nations into Gibraltar and their spread north over the next two or three centuries they drive further northward. At the same time Christians are arriving from the north driving deeper into the south. The not very nice monarchy of the time begins to negotiate with the immigrants to attract the properties of the Arabs and Jews to Spain. Everyone lives happily together for a bit but then in 1492 the King and Queen of Spain do a Robert Ford and they instigate the Spanish Inquisition which is designed to eliminate non-Christians in the name of creating a great Christian only nation. Of course, murder and mayhem follow.

These were the times of Avila. No doubt it was used effectively to keep people out but it t would probably effectively keep people in as well. It is now extremely tourist oriented for obvious reasons - it is the best remaining example of a fortified town. The coffee is good - the best we have had and will have for a while. The shops pretty and there are a surprising range of products. The town is much bigger than the medieval fortress of course it’s just that we are focused.

Jump four or five centuries and in 1936 we have the beginning of the Spanish Civil War. (I made a point of reading ‘for whom the Bell tolls’ before I left home. I am so glad I did, I got a far greater understanding of this war as a consequence. As I was walking Madrid I have been imaging some of the plotting and planning that was undertaken there in the name of democracy… or communism… depending on your thoughts at the time I supposed). The area north of Madrid also suffered heavy fighting, Madrid was the last place to be taken by the republican’s in the war and with its defeat Franco could take power, so I expect the walls of Avila carry secrets from more recent times as well.

Our guide tells us that the consequences of Franco’s dictatorship (lasting until 1975 when he died) are still felt across the country. As late as the early 70’s, nothing from Europe was allowed to influence the people, censorship was rife, there was a strong church following and simple food was all that was available. Hard to believe but now the churches are almost empty in the cities. Instead city living is about living well.

Onward we travel to Salamanca. This looks to be a lovely place, again the terracotta colours are everywhere. In the Main Plaza here, the walls, trims and shutters are all the same earthy colour. I know this because six of us, hungry after our medieval adventures decided to have a Spanish Paella here. Apparently there are a lot of ‘nuked’ paellas which are ‘muchos bad’ so this area was recommended as a place we could get the real deal. We forgot it would take a little while to make though and even then it took longer. It was worth the wait. Mine was cooked with a lovely fish base and doused in squid ink, The seafood was more sparse than I was expecting but incorporated calamari, prawns, clams and mussels. It was delicious but our indulgence meant that there was only time for a speed walk by two of us up and then back down two streets, a couple of clicks of the camera, and the fastest purchase in a tourist shop ever to be undertaken before we had to run back to the bus, motor running and 40 waiting people.

Pic is a wall of the fortified town of Avila.