The great Lisbon earthquake of 1755

Lisbon, Friday 20 October

The earthquake itself has nothing to do with anything I have been doing today except that everywhere I go I am reminded of the devastation that the 1755 earthquake would have caused. I doubt I will ever forget this date it cropped up almost daily on the tour as parts of Fez and Casablanca were demolished as a result of the tremors and even far way Italy had aftershocks. Other than the Alfama (the old district) Lisbon was destroyed first by the earthquake and then by resulting fires and then by the large waves which flooded the city an hour or two after the shake. An estimated 15,000 people lost their lives but who would know. The city was pretty much rebuilt to a very logical plan by a very practical man the Marques de Pombal after the earthquake, (there are statues and references to him everywhere)so the Alfama is a special place to visit.

My map reading wasn’t at its best this morning (or this afternoon for that matter). According to the guide book the number 28 streetcar enables much easier travelling than traipsing up the hills. I walked into Rossio but couldn’t find a stop for a number 28 street car so as I knew the general direction I was aiming for (the castle up near the sky)I ended up walking even when I had an alternative. The hills weren’t much different to home except that these ones are cobbled which added a touch more challenge.

My first stop was the Largos das Portas do Sol. A lovely balcony (we would say Terrace), the Miradouro de Santa Luzia looks over the Alfama towards the Targus estuary. There is a promenade here and a couple of musicians had set up to play for the day so I got the benefit of listening to some local music while I took in the view across the terracotta roofs, the dome of a cathedral and the Targus(not the Atlantic which is a little further down the coast) and then the tiled pictorials of Lisbon’s history, one showing what the commercial area looked like before it was flattened in 1755.

Moving uphill fast enough to keep the heart rate up but slow enough to appreciate the surroundings and amble a few typical streets, I then found the Miradouro de Graca another balcony with another great view looking the other way across the Alfama although this time overlooked by the Castelo de Sao Jorge, a defensive stronghold until the 16th century. The Miradouro itself is next to a church. An old church that rings out the bells. It was lovely to hear them again.

Once I got back to the centre of town I decided I would visit Chiado as I still had part of the afternoon ahead of me. There is an elevator which looks Parisian in the middle of town and I hunted that out to avoid some of the hilly streets (it looks Parisian because it turns out it was built by an apprentice of Eiffel - good to know I have my architectural styles in order). I think it runs more for tourists than the locals, it was a good thing to do but I would typically be frustrated with the 10 minute wait between up and down, especially when I learned on the coming home that it would have taken me the same amount of waiting time to walk the route. The thing about travel is you don’t know what is just around that next corner (although I am happy to report there is no sign today of blue tee shirts).

I accidentally made my way into the Bairro Alto (a visit for another day) but then found Chiado which is a slicker part of town, wider streets, nice shops and more up market generally. Plenty of people watching to be had from the cafés which is good because I had done a fair bit of walking by then.

Pic is of the Alfama area from the Miradouro de Graca.

PS Wanne what has happened to your pic...I liked it!